Wisconsin — yes. Imported — of course. Vermont — sure. But Maryland cheese?
Yes, indeed.
Eric and Holly Foster of Chapel’s Creamery, located just west of the area, in Easton, Md., have been selling their hand crafted artisanal cheeses commercially for almost three years now.
The farm boasts about 112 acres and more than 100 grass-fed cows. Eric, from Easton, comes from a line of dairy farmers Holly, originally from Denton, Md., was new to the work, although she did have an innate hard-work ethic and an appreciation for homemade goods that came from her family.
“My grandparents were small farmers — they always had a garden,” recalled Holly. “My grandmother was always gardening and canning and making pies and syrups. Part of who I am is because of her, and, believe it or not, she was from Wisconsin. I wish I was able to learn more from her, but she died 10 days after we bought the farm.”
Before the couple became farmers, Holly, a stay-at-home mom, would make cheeses and ice cream and yogurt, so it was not that much of a stretch to start using their own milk to make an authentic Maryland product.
“I loved it,” she said. “It was fun.”
The two always knew they would do something more to keep food on the table.
“As dairy farmers, we knew you can’t buy a farm, a herd and a tractor, and think that milk prices would pay the bills — ’cause it’s not. It was always in the back of his mind,” said Holly of husband Eric.
Once a week Holly goes to Lancaster, Pa., to work with an Amish artisanal cheesemaker to produce their cheese. The fresh, raw milk, anywhere from 12 to 24 hours old, is heated up and then mixed with cultures, which add the flavor to the cheese. They then add vegetable-based rennet and stir the heated milk until it gets to a custard-like consistency. Then they cut the curd into small cubes. The cubes are then cooked and stirred in the whey that was taken off earlier.
“Little Miss Muffet knew what she was doing, because it is good,” joked Holly of the curds and whey.
The whey is then drained and the curds are stirred. They then add salt and any herbs or spices. The cheese is then molded depending on the type of cheese and it is packaged. The couple’s chapel cheeses are then put into a cave to give a unique flavor.
One of their bestsellers, according to Holly, is the Talbot Reserve, a one-year cave-aged cheddar. In fact, just recently, the Fosters were sought out by chef Wolfgang Puck of The Source Restaurant in Washington, D.C. Because of exposure to their product through the Washington, D.C., Farmer’s Market, Puck stopped and bought a huge block of the famous cheddar. They will now be using the local cheese at his restaurant.
The creamery also produces a Chapelle Cave Aged Cheese, aged at least two months; Chapel Cheddar, a moist and creamy cheddar with a touch of sharpness; a Crab Spice Cheddar Cheese that adds JO crab spice to their cheddar, which they said is best served with Maryland crabs or a seafood dish, or melted over crab dip or soup; and Garlic and Chive Cheddar Cheese, which the couple recommends melted on sandwiches, twice-baked potatoes and macaroni and cheese.
Holly expressed much gratitude at being able to watch the whole cheesemaking process from the beginning, when the cows are eating grass, to the milking, to making the cheese, all the way to meeting supportive state officials and selling it to famous chefs.
“I have to say, it’s such a blessing,” she said. “I grew up in town, and to go from a stay at home mom to running a full-time, full-tilt business — that’s doing well… Days like today, with the rain, are perfect. The cows are just hanging out chewing their cud. One day, you might find me dressed up to meet with the governor, and the other day I’d be so filthy you wouldn’t recognize me, just out here with my girls,” she said, referring to the cows.
In fact, last week, Holly was to be a guest at the Maryland governor’s mansion at a picnic themed “Buy Local Annapolis.”
For now, the family is enjoying their lifestyle — because the one thing it very much is not is a job. Holly said future plans for the business could include ice cream-making, depending on if their kids want to get more involved, and maybe making the farm more of an educational center, but, for now, they are concentrating on their cows and their cheeses.
“Eventually, we’d like it to be more of an educational place, to educate people about where their food comes from. But, right now we are really busy. There is always something to do,” said Holly of dairy farming. “Last Christmas, we were on the way to my mother’s for dinner, and I had to call her back and tell her one of the cows was in labor, and we’d be over after. It’s 24-7!”
Chapel’s Creamery cheeses can be found during the summer at the weekly Lewes, Rehoboth Beach and Bethany Beach farmers’ markets. They also have online ordering available and even stock many stores in their area, including in Easton, Denton, St. Michael’s, Cordova and Cambridge, Md., as well as in the area around Washington D.C., Baltimore, Annapolis and Alexandria, Va.
Chapel’s Creamery is located at 10380 Chapel Road Easton, Md. For more information, or to order online, visit www.chapelscreamery.com or call (410) 820-6647.